Winter is over. Spring weather set in couple of weeks ago and our minds turned into rock climbing mode, full time.
We´ve been leading many events, such as climbing clinics around town for experienced climbers that want to get better and also for beginners that want to learn.
Wen also organized a slideshow to collect money for bolts and hangers, so we can continue developing an amazing spot close to San Martin, that promise to be a great climbing area.
We´ve been leading many events, such as climbing clinics around town for experienced climbers that want to get better and also for beginners that want to learn.
Wen also organized a slideshow to collect money for bolts and hangers, so we can continue developing an amazing spot close to San Martin, that promise to be a great climbing area.
In between all this, we´ve been climibing as much as possible and working at the ski resort during the weekends.
As soon as we got some rock contact and our heads were ready to work hard, I started working on a route that is called SAURON, situated in Covisal, about 10 min drive from my house.
This route was bolted by Pere Vilarasu, about 7 or 8 years ago.
It was first climbed by Diego Marsella, probably the strongest argentinian climber. This route was first graded as 8b / 13d.
I always looked at the line with respect, till last year when i decided to give it a go for the first time ever. I remember it was a catastrofic effort. Almost fell down on every move, couldn´t even clip from the holds and had to grab the draw to clip. In the upper section of the route I was unable to figure out two moves and actually had a very hard time getting to the anchor. I dirt and took a flight to Kalymnos. Didn´t get on the route again, till this fall.
This year, with new eyes, some more power and also renovated motivation, I got on the route again.
First day, went up pretty smooth till the 3rd bolt, were the first mini crux section is. Figured out the move and kept climbing for two more bolts. That´s were i found the hardest move. Up to this move the route could easily be a 7c.
It took me a couple of days to figure out how to do this move and build some strength. But one very nice day, I find out the way and got super motivated. Now every move was possible for me and i just needed the specific power endurance to reach the anchors with out falling.
A couple of tries more i was one hanging on the route. I was falling right after the crux since I was losing a lot of strength clipping a draw from a very bad hold. So i decided I had to skip that bolt if I wanted to send. Next go, fell after skiping the bolt and took a very airy whipper of about 8 to 10 mts.
I gave it a couple days rest and came back with very low expectations. It was a hot day and we were kind of in a hurry. I only had 1 hour to warm up, and give it probably just one go.
After the warm up and a proper rest time I went. Passed the first crux without not even noticing it, got up to the second crux and found my self not even tired, passed and suddenly, ooohhps !!! My feet slid and I went down.
As soon as I felt, I went down to the ground. Looked at the watch, I had at most around 15 more minutes. rested for about 5 minutes and went back up. Climbed super focused, and found my self clipping the chains. It was a great moment, specially when I look back and remember that first time I couldn´t even do most of the moves on the route. Is amazing how our bodies adapt to each move and our minds evolve. Climbing is an amazing sport and all this experiences are why I love it so much.
Certainly, being consistent and trying time after time, fall after fall is the most difficult part, but if you can do that, then you can climb anything you want !!!
You can watch a little video about this route here : http://vimeo.com/48625611
