Friday, January 28, 2011

CHINA CLIMB


When we first decided to go climb in China, we only had two things pretty clear ...
The climbing would be amazing and the experience would be an unforgettable adventure!!!  
We' ve seen pictures of the area before, so our expectations were pretty hi.
We arrived to Yangshuo, settled in the middle of impresive limetones karsts and rice fields, in the Guilin region,  after a 10 hour overnight bus from Shenzen, border city with Hong Kong.
Our first impression of Yangshuo was amazing ! We felt like in a movie, walking through the streets of this ancient town, chinese music sounding on the street,  spectacular limestone towers right over our heads and a constant and silent mist in the air.

Streets of Yangshuo.
After settling down, in our $8 per night room, we went to take a walk and quickly find some  of the local climbing stores.  We did some research on the best places to go climbing and how to get to each area.  There is a climbing guidebook, and you can get it at any climbing store in Yangshuo.  Renting a bike for a $1 per day, was the cheapest, most efficent and safest way to get to mostly every cliff base. There are also some minibus shuttles that you can get to the cliffs, if you don't feel like biking every day.
Yangshuo from the other side of the river, with the typical mist.

White Mountain, is one of the most popular climbing areas. It hosts more than a 100 routes, ranging from 5.10a to 5.14d.  This is a massive wall, slightly overhanging, with very technical and long  routes.  The style on this wall is amazing and every route we climbed was definetely a world class climb. Any given day you'll find some of the strongest climbers on the world testing their skills on this wall.



A beautiful setting.

Just a little part of White Mountain. Is so big, is hard to get it all in the pciture.

 Moon Hill is the other super popular area.  You' ve probably seen pictures of it in climbing magazines.  It's defeinetely a place to visit.  The climbing here involves negotiating tufas on a pretty overhang wall.  There are enough routes to keep you busy for weeks and the views and sorroundings from up there are magnificent.





Lei Pi Shan is another popular place to climb.  The setting is not so great, since is right next to the road, and in china, people seem to enjoy using the horns of their motorbikes as much as they can, but the climbing is damn good !!!  It host arround 30 routes, all of them high quality.  The grade here starts arround 5.11 and goes up ...
Will this give you a dimension of the wall ??
Add to those, some other 50 areas and thousand of limestone towers that have 

not been touched yet, and China could become you favorite climbing destination, oh yes, plus climbing here is possible almost year round.  The best months are October, November, December and January.  At this time, weather is pretty dry and sunny, with good temperatures to send.  The rest of the year it might be a little bit more humid, but the walls are so overhanging that you can climb every day !

Yanghsuo it self is a small town (by chinese standards) with a population of about 300.000 people !  Streets are ussually crowded and there are bikes, motor bikes and mini vans everywere.  It seems like there are not many traffic rules, but it all flows in an impressive way.  










So, why would you want to go climb in China? Because it will be a life changing experience. The culture, the food, the language, the views and the climbing will blow you. You'll go one time and you'll want to come back. China definetely changed our lifes in a good and positive way. It opened our eyes and minds and once we were able and capable to understand, we had the best time ever.

Working a 13b in White Mtn.
For more info about climbing in china, visit:


On an amazing 12d in White Mtn.

Mick, climbing on a great 12d in White Mtn.

Sunday, January 23, 2011

CLIMBING IN PARADISE !!!! VALLE ENCANTADO - ARGENTINA !!!

THIS IS AN UPGRADED VERSION OF THE VALLE ENCANTADO VIDEO !!!! ENJOY IT !!!


This video shows part of the Cantejondo sending process !!! Unfortunately the red point go, was not recorded, but anyways, it's cool to watch the potential of Valle Encantado, a place that is constantly in danger of being closed to climbers ... beacause of those that don't respect nature and land owners will !!!  
Valle Encantado hosts over 100 world class climbs !! Short, long, bouldery, mutli pitch, hard and not so hard, beginner, crimpy, slopy, tufas, everything you can imagine, you'll find it here !!! Add to that, that you are sorrounded by some of the most espectacular views and the weather here, allows you to climb almost year round !!!  

Friday, January 14, 2011

SKIING ON THE WEST SIDE !!!


FIRST DAY OFF, THIS YEAR ... WENT SKIING ON THE WEST SIDE OF SNOWMASS !!
ENJOY THE VIDEO !!!

Sunday, January 9, 2011

New year and recap of 2010 !!!

I can´t belive how fast 2010 went through !!!!  I still remember january 1st 2010 !  But, usually, when time goes by so fast, it means that you are having fun ...  and let´s see :
Started 2010 working and skiing in Aspen, with some amazing snow on the slopes and very cool friends and students !  Winter flew away and all of a sudden, we were climbing in Utha´s dessert, Saint George, more specifically !!  Then headed to Red Rocks in Nevada.  Drove back to aspen, pack and the same day took a flight to Argentina.  Dropped all ski bags, ski clothes, grabed my rope, climbing shoes, harness and 15 quickdraws, a short, two t-shirts and my flip flaps and basically the same day, flew to Bangkok !!! Spent two months climbing in Asia (one month in Thailand, 15 days in Yangshuo, China and 10 days in Ha Long Bay, Vietnam).  The missing 5 days were spent in Bangkok getting visas for china and vietnam.  Then, went back to Argentina.  Ski season was about to start !!  Used the off time ski mountaneering in the andes and if the temps. would allow, did some one day trips to Valle Encantado  to find a suitable project to climb after the winter ! And i did.  Decided to get back on my old project, Cantejond (13b / 8a).  Between ski teaching, ski guiding and some indoor gym trainning, i managed to go every once in a while back to Valle Encantado and give a shot to the project.  We had very cold days, were climbing was narly, but the motivation and anxiety to send would prevail !!!
So winter in argentina, went through pretty fast too.  Tons of ski mountaneering with the local kids and the Expedicion Bicentenario to the Lanin volcano were some of the most amazing things we did along the cold months !!!  Add that we organizaed the first ski mountaneering race in San Martin de los Andes, and it was superb !!!   Then, sending time came !! When i least expected and just two weeks before the climbing national championships, i send Cantejondo !!! Wow, what a relief !!! I was running ut of time !!  And as usual, the day i red pointed, it seemed soooo easy !!!  Well, done with the project, focused on the national championships. Ended up 4th.  Pretty happy with my performance on that ! One week later, flew to Buenos Aires, spent 4 days there, visitin firends and family. Then flew to Santiago de Chile.  Climbed at Las Chilcas 2 days, almost onsighted a 13b called Simpatia por el Diablo, pretty cool route !  
And flew back to the states.  Drove to Red rocks and got certified as a Single Pitch Rock Guide.  After that, some personal climbing at Santin George, Indian Creek, Potash Road and back to Aspen  for the winter !!! And now is 2011 !!! can`t belive how fast it went trhough, but i guess we had tons of fun and was by far one fo the best years of my life !!! Here is a video of one of our may trips to Valle Encantado ! enjoy !



Thursday, January 6, 2011

Enjoy this video !!! Climbing in Badami, India !!!

CLIMBING IN TONSAI

Climbing in Thailand is by all means AMAZING !!!!
When we first arrived to Tonsai, our first impression, wasn`t the best.  It was juts a matter of time and mind setting.  We belive that if you are going to climb in Asia, you must open your mind and be ready for some life changing experiences !!! or you can just fight against it and have a bad time !!!
Once we were able to understand the culture and the climbing style, we were able to fully enjoy this place !!!!
 So, we arrived to Bangkok and two hours later got a flight to Pucket.  From there, we took a taxi to the ferry that took us to Phi Phi Island !!! It was the perfect way to start the trip.  Some beach time on one of the most beautiful places on planet earth !!
We only stayed two days at Phi Phi.  There is some climbing on the island and is pretty good, but we were anxious to get to our main destination, TONSAI !!!  So a 3 hs ferry took us to Krabi and from there a Long Tail boat to Tonsai.
Tonsai is a climbers beach !!!  Cheap bungalows, cheap food and world class climbing on the extraordinary limestone, right on the beach !!!
Just picture that, and add climbers from all over the world, testing their skills on hundreds of amazing routes !!!  Oh, yes, and when you are done climbing, you can  rapel  (or walk 100 feet) to the bar and have a  beer !!


 There is climbing for everyone. From 5.6 to 5.14a.  Steep, multipitch, vertical, everything !!!
We spent a month on the beach !!  I have to say that it might have been one of the most rewarding, life changing experiences that i had so far in my life!  And i can`t wait to be back !!!
After Thailand, we went to Yangshuo, in China, but that is a different chapter, pretty amazing too !!!
Hope you enjoy the pictures.
  

See you all soon.